Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
